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Get the best bloom and healthiest form from your Crape Myrtle with this seasonal watering, pruning, and feeding guide, including what to expect during its winter dormancy.
Deep water two to three times a week for the first six to eight weeks after planting. After that, taper off, Crape Myrtle is moderately drought-tolerant once established, and consistent overwatering can reduce bloom quality.
Prune in late winter while the tree is still dormant, before spring growth begins. Remove crossing or damaged branches and thin for shape. One important warning: avoid the aggressive topping style sometimes called “crape murder,” cutting the tree back hard to stubs every year weakens the structure and produces weaker, floppier blooms over time. Light, selective pruning gets better results than heavy cuts.
A light, balanced feeding in early spring, as new growth begins, supports strong summer bloom. Avoid heavy nitrogen close to bloom season, it encourages leafy growth at the expense of flowers.
Crape Myrtle is deciduous, it will drop its leaves in winter and look bare until spring, this is completely normal, not a sign of a dying tree. Watch for crape myrtle bark scale (small white or gray bumps on branches) and powdery mildew (a white coating on leaves), both are manageable with prompt treatment if caught early.
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No, this is normal. Crape Myrtle is deciduous and drops its leaves in winter, it will leaf back out in spring.
Late winter, while it's still dormant and before spring growth starts. Avoid heavy topping, sometimes called “crape murder,” light selective pruning produces better blooms over time.
Heavy topping in previous years or too much nitrogen fertilizer close to bloom season can both weaken bloom quality. Switch to light, selective pruning and a lighter feeding schedule.
Crape myrtle bark scale (small white or gray bumps on branches) and powdery mildew (a white coating on leaves) are the most common issues, both manageable if caught early.